Essential Guide to 120-Volt Power Converters for RVs

The power converter is an essential component in an RV'south electrical organization. Typically, coaches have ii substantially separate electrical systems; 1 that provides 120 volts Air conditioning to loftier-power consumption, high-wattage appliances such as coffee makers, microwave ovens, hair dryers, air conditioners, etc. The other, low-voltage part of the electrical organization provides 12 volts DC to lights and other items which don't have high current draws, and are sometimes powered by onboard batteries (which provide power when yous're not hooked up to an outside power source or generator).

Power Converter

Tiptop left: Parallax Series 7300; top right: Iota Engineering DLS Model; lesser left: Progressive Dynamics Model PD9250c; bottom correct: Xantrex Truecharge 2-40a

When you are continued to campground ability or running off a generator, the power converter changes the 120 volt AC power to 12 volts DC, which is compatible with the low-voltage electrical system and batteries. This electricity supplied by the converter can take the place of the ability from the batteries, and can also recharge them.

Many basic single-phase converters, typically found in older and lower-priced coaches, are however in employ. They don't take the sophisticated internal circuitry to properly charge and condition batteries. Some converter models supply only a stock-still voltage of effectually thirteen.two volts, which prevents batteries from reaching full charge and also shortens their service life. Modern multi-stage charging circuits typically include 4 operation modes: heave, normal, equalization and storage (or float).

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Batteries have become quite expensive, and faulty charging by the converter tin be both inconvenient due to loss of power, and costly in terms of ruining batteries. It's likely that the majority of RV batteries succumb to sulfation, rather than actually being worn out, or dying of old age. Sulfation occurs when pb sulfate forms on the internal plates and reduces or fifty-fifty halts the battery'south power to have and concur a charge. When batteries are stored in a partially charged or discharged condition, and/or are improperly charged, sulfation occurs.

Batteries are sensitive to charging voltages and require multiple charging stages to get a full, proper charge. Multi-stage power converter/chargers that accept an equalization phase are needed for constructive bombardment charging.

I of the best things y'all tin do for the life of your battery/ies is to familiarize yourself with the type of power converter you have in your autobus. Many owners don't even know where their converter is located. Typically it's a metal box a little bigger than a large box of facial tissues and is situated side by side to the fuse panel, well-nigh where the wiring comes into the coach. When it is powered upwards, it gives off a humming sound, which tin help y'all locate it. Normally the brand and model and power ratings are written on the case. You tin can also look up the ratings in the manuals that come up with the RV.

Modern converters operate automatically and have become more efficient. Some newer models combine an inverter, which provides 120 volt Ac power that's produced electronically from 12 volt DC battery ability, when the motorbus isn't continued to an outside source of electricity. These add convenience and many owners upgrade to inverter-type ability supplies when replacement time comes.

Troubleshooting Power Converters

If y'all have some DIY skills you can perform basic troubleshooting on your ability converter. Power converters crave sufficient voltage input to operate.

  • Begin by checking voltage at the outlet the RV is plugged into. Use a handheld multimeter to check voltage at the campground outlet. It should range betwixt 108 and 130 volts, preferably 120.
  • Adjacent, check to come across if the circuit is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). If so check if the GFCI is tripped, reset if needed.
  • Then check for power going into the converter inside the charabanc. See if it has fuses on it; replace burned out ones with exact replacements.
  • If everything checks out, heed; the unit of measurement should hum if information technology is operating.
  • After that, mensurate for DC voltage (which requires a different calibration on the meter) where power comes from the converter into the 12-volt DC breaker box. It should be around 12 to 14 volts if it is operating properly, if it'due south lower you may accept a faulty power converter.

Converters likewise have a pocket-sized fan which cools the internal components during operation. The cooling fan should continue and off during converter use, controlled by a temperature sensor. The fans usually run on 120 volts AC, so be careful when measuring voltage and use the 200 volt Air-conditioning meter scale. Make sure voltage is getting through the temperature sensor to the fan motor before condemning the motor. If the fan motor is good, yous should be able to jumper wire the sensor and get the fan to operate. In this example, replace the sensor.

Replacing a Converter

Power converters are available in various amperage output ratings, designed to run into the RV'due south 12-volt DC system demands. The larger and more amenity-filled the coach, the higher the power requirement. Converter 12-volt power output ratings generally range from about 20 to 100 amperes (amps), although small campers may accept less. Usually the original unit is sufficient for the electrical loads of the RV every bit it came from the factory, merely if y'all have added 12-volt electrical lights or other items, and observe that in that location's sometimes not enough "juice" you may need an upgrade.

A major reason owners upgrade is to get more modernistic multi-stage charging features with an equalization style, to improve charging and extend battery life. Batteries are also sensitive to extreme temperatures; they lose power at low temperatures and outgas and give off more water during charging at higher temperatures. Some converter manufacturers offer models which have temperature compensation circuitry, which adjusts voltage and accuse rates according to temperature. This feature is not only convenient, but extends bombardment life.

Some folks always have their RV connected to shore power, and notice it a nuisance to have to install, maintain, and supplant batteries. With many ability converters, the 12 volt DC current they provide is not smooth and complimentary of Air conditioning "ripples" and voltage variations which crusade problems with some sensitive DC electronics. Batteries soak upwards ripples and small voltage spikes to protect these devices. Still, Iota Engineering has a DLS converter series which produces smooth DC power that's uniform with sensitive electronic circuits and tin can therefore be used without a bombardment in the organization. Iota too offers the IQ4 Smart Charge Controller which adds multi-stage bombardment charging adequacy if you exercise decide to run batteries.

When it comes time upwardly update your converter, take your time shopping. There are many useful features, and some models tin be upgraded rather than being replaced. With all of the models available, you tin tailor your ability supply to your RVing needs.

You might also be interested in this free video RV Power Converter Troubleshooting:

Popular Sources

Iota Engineering science
www.iotaengineering.com
520-294-3292

Parallax Power Supply
www.parallaxpower.com
800-730-2557

Progressive Dynamics
www.progressivedyn.com
269-781-4241

Xantrex
www.xantrex.com
800-670-0707

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